I made it! The Trent-Severn Waterway is one of the sections of this journey that I had been most looking forward to. It is a historic 386-kilometer interconnected canal system in Ontario, Canada that runs between Trenton and Georgian Bay (Lake Huron) at Port Severn. It includes 44 locks, over 130 dams, and 40 swing bridges and is home to the world-famous Peterborough Lift Lock (Lock 21), the Kirkfield Lift Lock (Lock 36), and the Big Chute Marine Railway (Lock 44). I left Trenton and was on my way.
The Waterway is run by Parks Canada and there is a fee for “mooring” on the lock walls but it covers you throughout the whole waterway. When I think of mooring, I think of tying up to a mooring ball that is attached to the ocean/lake/river floor, but “mooring” in this sense means tying up to the lock walls. The locks do not use the radios like the Erie and Oswego Canals do. If you want to go through the lock, you hang out on the blue wall (a lock wall painted blue) and if you want to stay the night, you tie up to the gray concrete wall. There is generally a Lockmaster plus a seasonal student worker (or a few). The lock gates, at least on the first half, are manually operated so it takes one person on each side of the wall to crank open the gate at each lock. The technology is fascinating and there is an evident sense of pride in the workers and how they maintain their locks. The locks are all blue and gold but each has a different personality. Beautiful gardens, dog treats, and canoe decorations, it seems as though they try to outdo each other.
After my first wild and windy day learning the locks on the Erie Canal, I had figured out my fender arrangement, my approach angle, and my speed. I had my two new big ball fenders and I bought another short boat hook. Of course, there was now a twist. I was used to the slime lines (literally heavy ropes hanging down the wall covered in the slime from the river that you wrap around your cleat) and the sturdy cables and pipes that were inset into the lock walls. I had been using just one line at my midcleat and staying at the helm with my engine on so that I could tweak my position if needed. Trent-Severn rules say you have to have 2 lines and turn your engine off. In addition, the connecting points are cables but they are slack and are on the face of the lock walls. Back to square one. Deep breaths. I pulled into Lock 1, tied off my midship cleat then scurried back to my stern to grab a cable behind me with my boat hook. I turned my engine off and held both lines until the lock was full and I was at the top. And that’s it…end of story. I am ready for these blog boats to eventually get boring because that is when I will have finally figured out what tf I am doing!
The Trent-Severn did not disappoint. I spent the first two nights at lovely Lock 7 in Glen Ross. There was a storm coming in and I had a full day of work the next day so I was very happy to stay a second night. The lockmaster there is Janice and keeps the grounds absolutely pristine. There is one convenience store where I bought Tang concentrate, cheese curds, and a cone of the famous Kawartha ice cream… maple pecan of course, eh. The area below the lock is a peaceful place to kayak and Kali and I explored the area. It was nice opportunity to change my air filter and recharge.
When I was ready to go, I buddied up with Wade-ing Around and Gadabout. The first several locks feed water from one side or the other (not both), so boats can only tie to port OR starboard depending on the water flow. That is, unless there is a smaller boat (mine) that can tie up to a bigger boat (Wade-ing Around). We learned a new skill and our three boats spent the day in the same configuration all the way to Campbellford. Thanks Janice!
My next stop was the Town Dock in Campbellford. They welcomed us each with our names on signs so that we knew where to moor. Paul and I watched the FIFA World Cup final and made friends at the Tap & Tonic Pub & Bistro and then had an evening filled with Gin & Tonics with some boaters who we were moored by. Such a fun and spontaneous day, but it was a short stop and we were on our way the next day.
As I traveled farther north, I saw more and more white swans and loons. Sound up for the third video – I love the haunting sound of loons’ cries!
Paul and I decided to spend three nights in the little town of Hastings. I needed a laundromat and had a busy work week, plus high winds were coming in. I was not about to ruin my successful locking streak by putting myself in a windy situation. Paul quickly became a regular at a quirky little coffee and vinyl record store called the Nook and we found an amazing Italian restaurant. We tried it out one night and then ended up back there the next night as more loopers arrived. We filled the place! An added bonus was that NautiPaws delivered Dooher’s donuts to us from Campbellford since they were closed while we were there. Yum!
Peterborough is the biggest city on the Trent-Severn Waterway. I tend to opt for the smaller towns but felt I had to check it out. I stayed at the wall on Lock 19 and walked to the Peterborough Marina where Kali and I met Paul and Ozzy for a cheese board, fried smelt, and cocktails. There was a concert the next night but I was anxious to move on so I did not see as much of Peterborough as I would have liked…or so I thought at the time.
Peterborough Lift Lock day was here!!! 65 feet! It is a hydraulic lift lock which means that it consists of two “bathtubs” that are cantilevered to move in opposite directions at the same time. Whichever one is at the top is filled with more water than the one at the bottom so gravity pulls the top one down and the mechanism within the lock pulls the bottom one up. It is an incredible feat of engineering. For those of you thinking “what if there are bigger boats in the bottom that weigh more than the ones at the top?” The weight of the boats is equal to the weight of the water that is displaced by the boats so the bottom bathtub can be completely full of boats with no boats in the top, but the top one is still heavier and gravity pulls it down exactly the same every time. It is probably just easier to watch the videos:
But then Lakefield. Oh my goodness, Lakefield! It is a little cottage town and exactly my vibe. It is an easy in-and-out after Lock 26 and I booked a night at the Lakefield Marina instead of staying on the already-paid-for Lock wall. I was at the point that I was worried about my holding tank and really, really needed a pump out. I was also due for a hot shower so I ponied up and went big. $91 Canadian dollars – only $60 USD per night. It was money well spent. It is a block away from the town filled with quirky boutiques, a Foodtown grocery, a well-stocked fresh market, lots of Kawartha ice cream, the Canoe and Paddle Pub, and the Lakefield Trail System that stretches for 8.5 kilometers. The days were warm and the nights were cool. Kali and I slept great and we got up and hiked for 2 hours along the trail and she had a quick swim. I put her down for a nap and rode my bike to pick up a few groceries, hit the market, and found a kickin’ pair of Converse tennies at The Refillery on Queen consignment shop. Lakefield had moved to the top of my favorite places list. I could definitely spend more time here.
I was a little bummed about missing the music fest in Peterborough. I had already moved on and was five hours (by boat) beyond. However, when I arrived at the Lakefield Marina, I chatted with one of the locals and he said I should check out the music fest in Peterborough. There was a 12 piece brass dance band called My Son the Hurricane playing and they are described as a “multi-horn, multi-drummer brass-funk powerhouse” What? How? Sign me up! He recommended getting the U Ride app and spending 15 minutes and $20 CAD to catch a ride back. I called my buddy Paul and said “I’m coming back”!
Another great week in the books and looking forward to the second half of the Trent-Severn Waterway!
“To awaken quite alone in a strange town is one of the pleasantest sensations in the world. You are surrounded by adventure.” – Freya Stark
To support the adventure or to track The ‘Nati Nomad’s progress, visit greatloop.thenatinomad.com.
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