Antarctica

First, a disclaimer: I did not take all of these amazing pictures. Many were shared from my new friends and from the Quark Expeditions photographer. They are an accurate representation of my experience in Antarctica though. I’m very grateful that photographers who are much better than me were willing to share their pics and capture the experience.

During my journey to step foot on all 7 continents, I decided Antarctica would be my 6th. As I started to look for options, the excitement grew. I traded in my Harley for a downpayment and booked with Quark Expeditions for a trip a year and a half away.

After 2 days in vibrant city of Buenos Aires, I arrived at the Emperador Hotel in the heart of the city. Within an hour, I met my first friend on the elevator. It went a little like this:

Me: “Are you going to Antarctica with Quark?”

Paul: “Yes! Are you?”

Me: – “Yes!”

Paul: “I haven’t eaten. Want to go to Cafe Tortoni?”

Me: “I just ate but I’d love to go with you to check it out.”

This is really not an exaggeration. Our conversation lasted for about 3 floors in the elevator. For those who think that I meet people easily, Paul is next level. He didn’t realize it at that point, but his nickname would be “Mayor Paul” in a few short days.

The next person I met was my roommate! We didn’t realize it but our hotel rooms in Buenos Aires were adjacent. We both walked out of our doors with our luggage the next morning at the same time. Our conversation went something like this:

Me: “Are you going to Antarctica with Quark?”

Kara: “Yes! Are you?”

Me: “Yes!”

Kara: “Solo?”

Me: “Yes. You?”

Kara: “Yes. Room 320?”

Me: “Yes! You?”

It was just too easy. We looked at each other’s luggage, secretly (but not so secretly) judging the size, hoping we weren’t getting stuck with a high-maintenance, overpacker. It was serendipity…one carryon plus a backpack. A roommate match made in heaven!

That is how our group of penguin-loving friends started, like a Gentoo bringing little pebbles back to the nest, one at a time (if you don’t understand this, you’ll see what I mean later). We soon accumulated a core group of 10 friends from 6 different countries on 4 continents. Our ages ranged from 23 to 51 but no, the other 51-year old was 4 months older than me so I wasn’t the oldest! We boarded our flight to Ushuaia and we were on our way.

Day 1 – Leaving Ushuaia (12/27/23)

We had just enough time in Ushuaia to experience a sampling of their King Crab, find a (closed) Irish pub, do a little souvenir shopping and get some passport stamps. And then…finally….I boarded the Ultramarine with my 197 fellow travelers and we started our adventure.

Accommodations on the Ultramarine are first class and the ship was only 2 years old at the time. Spa, sauna, steam room, fitness center, yoga room, 2 restaurants, 3 bars and incredible common areas. Our room was exceptional with plenty of space and storage. We settled in and ventured to the Panorama room, which would soon be our favorite meeting spot, to join some of the others. Not long after, we got our first intercom message from our dreamy Expedition Leader. We were experiencing our first “Plan B” because 40 knot winds weren’t allowing the ship to disembark from the dock. The uncertainty of departure actually added to the anticipation. Besides, the Quark team communicated clearly to everyone multiple times that the entire trip is 100% weather-dependent. We knew that everything about this trip was subject to change on a moment’s notice. We did not even know where we were going each day until the evening before. So, we did what all normal people do – we hit the bar! 6 hours later around 11:30pm, we noticed movement. This was it!!! That moment was pure joy. We all ran out to the front deck to hug and take pictures. We were doing it!!!

Day 2 – At Sea (12/28/23)

The first day at sea was ROUGH, literally and on the body! The options for the Drake Passage are the “Drake Shake” or the “Drake Lake”. By the time we woke up the next morning, there were 40 knot winds and 6 meter swell, resulting in the former: Drake Shake. My first lesson was that I should have taken the Dramamine the night before. By the morning, it was too late. The first 3 pictures below are the only sites I saw the first day until dinner.

About a third of the people on the ship missed dinner due to motion sickness. I lasted about 15 minutes and asked for a food delivery back in my room. As I was bolting back to the room, I heard the Maitre D’hotel saying “we need more Ginger Ale and green apples set out!”. No bueno!

Day 3 – At Sea (12/29/23)

The Drake Shake was not as severe the second day at sea. After another dose of Dramamine and the addition of a Zofran, I was back on my feet and ready to explore. I will mention it several times but the Quark team…incredible. Even the Captain is welcoming and passengers are allowed to visit the Bridge. Below are pics of the Panorama lounge and the Bridge.

With most people still on the road to recovery, most of the things on the itinerary were mandatory safety meetings. All passengers had to have their ID cards scanned as proof of attendance. Safety topics included passenger safety as well as Antarctica ecosystem safety. We had the boat equivalent of a fire drill to make sure everyone knew how and where to abandon ship if necessary. We had a helicopter safety briefing. We also learned about the destructive nature of some of the invasive species of flora and fauna that have been introduced here by unknowing humans.

Albatross!! It is in my blood to get unreasonably excited about birds. Although I would not consider myself a birder, I grew up with a birder mom who listened to bird songs on our record player so that she could identify them on her walks. My mom planned some of her favorite trips according to the migratory pattern of whichever birds she was hoping to see. So, naturally, I made friends with the other bird nerds and joined them with my binoculars. Albatross, petrels, prions, fulmars were abundant. The Wandering Albatross, the Cape Petrel and the Southern Fulmar were my favorite. I know the cute little one with the black head below isn’t a Southern Fulmar but maybe my mom will view this post and correct me so that I can update this.

As we got closer to the southern tip of the earth, we saw our first iceberg in the distance! And soon after….the humpback whales. Whale soup!!!! Incredible! Whales were in every direction. I watched all afternoon. There were approximately 30 in a pod just in front of where our ship anchored. And when I left the Pano for dinner, I watched them from our table. I’m in love.

Day 4 – Melchior Islands (12/30/23)

Today, we woke up to a “Gooood morning, Ultramarine passengers. (Weather, location and position update). The wind is 10 knots and we are able to get our zodiacs and kayakers out today. Kayakers should meet in the Ready Room at 8:00. Breakfast is served in the dining room.” Gleee!! Our first day on the water did not disappoint!!! On kayaking days, we would meet on the first deck of the ship to put on a full dry suit, thoroughly disinfected boots, life jacket and kayak skirt. After a quick zodiac ride to our destination, we boarded our kayaks and started exploring. We immediately liked our two amazing Kayak Guides, Kelly and Whitey, and we saw our first Chinstrap Penguins and Weddell Seals!!! A fun fact about Chinstrap Penguins is that they microsleep over 10,000 times per day in 4 second sessions. Some days I feel like I do this too, and it makes me like them even more! Weddell Seals are about 8 feet long and weigh about 1000 pounds and look super snuggly.

I also spotted the head of what looked like a seal’s head but a little different. I pointed it out to Whitey who called to Kelly and then we ended up quickly heading through that passage. It turns out that it was likely a Leopard Seal sighting. There is nothing cute or cuddly about a Leopard Seal. There’s no squishy feeling in your heart like when you see the fat face of a Weddell. They are really the only thing to be cautious of in this area and you don’t want to see them face-to-face in the water.

I am and always have been a lover of flight! That said, I had never been in a helicopter. The kids and I were supposed to take a helicopter adventure in Alaska but weather conditions did not allow. Needless to say, I was super pumped to fly over glaciers in Antarctica!! After sweet-talking the flight coordinator (just kidding – I think it was probably coincidence), I was lucky enough to sit in the front with the pilot!!! I also have a weak spot for pilots, so…it was amazing.

Day 5 – Damoy Point & Lemaire Channel (12/31/23)

This day was our first landing! The wind and swell were too severe to kayak so we joined the others on zodiak excursions in the morning and afternoon. Damoy Point was our first destination and is located in the northern entrance port to the harbor of Port Lockroy. It was discovered and named by Jean-Baptiste Charcot during his expedition from 1903-1905. The orange hut and the Argentinian flag hut are the original structures and have been preserved for historical purposes. They now provide shelter to some of the resident Gentoo penguins.

Our first penguin colonies! There were penguin colonies in all directions. Our expedition guides had been there earlier in the day to mark off the paths where we were allowed to walk. We had already had instructions that we were not to walk along the “penguin highways” and must stay in the paths. In addition, bird flu is wiping out penguin colonies because of careless visitors laying their stuff down on the ice and then transferring viruses to other colonies. It was mesmerizing to watch the penguins doing their penguin things. They have no land predators so they have no fear of humans. Seals and whales eat them while they are in the water and birds, specifically Skuas, attack their eggs and babies from the sky. Included below are a couple pictures of a Skua looking for a meal.

The pictures below may seem repetitive but I watched this penguin for some time. Gentoo penguins build their nest out of pebbles on the rocky outcroppings when the winter snow thaws. They have brooding pouches, which look like a feather free line on their lower tummy, that they wrap around their eggs to keep them warm. The pebbles on their nests are prized possessions and are aggressively guarded by the owners and stolen by others. The pebbles are also used as gifts by the males to the females. The guy I was watching below was continuously picking out perfect stones from a pile and carefully taking them to his partner and placing them on the nest. He was very serious about his duty and it was fascinating to watch his diligence. In the top left picture, he is at the top left adding a stone. Then he leaves and hops off the rock to go back to the pebble pile to pick another and return. Every girl appreciates a nice rock from her partner, doesn’t she??

The rest of the afternoon was spent with new friends enjoying the spectacular views of the Lemaire Channel.

And then… Ice, Ice, Baby started playing over the intercoms in our rooms and around the boat. We were hoping to be able to do the Polar Plunge but as I mentioned before, nothing is guaranteed and everything is weather-dependent. Mild winds, 0 C air temperature and -1.5 C water temperatures were the perfect (?!) conditions for the Polar Plunge! It was time!!! We raced to put our suits on and we were called down to the first deck in groups. The atmosphere was pure PARTY!! There was no time and no option (or desire) to change your mind. We filed down to the assembly area and waited our turn. They tether you with a harness to the boat just in case of…. ? The sting of the cold air hit my skin, but the water temperature was shockingly invigorating. I climbed the ladder and hurried to put my robe back on. That was so much fun!!!! A shot of vodka to warm you up, a patch to prove you did it and a beeline to the steam room.

My amazing roommate won the camping lottery and had the opportunity to sleep in a sleeping bag on Antarctica!!! No tent, no toilet except a 5-gallon paint bucket with a Hefty bag inside. One of our other solo traveling friends won too, so we bought a bottle of champagne for an early New Years Eve toast and wished them well. They were so excited and we were excited for them!!!

For those of us who had a warmer New Years Eve, the ship held a special Penguin Party and challenged us to dress in a penguin theme. Can you guess which penguin I picked?

Day 6 – Yalours & Port Charcot (1/1/24)

On this morning, we were back on our kayaks and ready for another adventure to the Yalour Islands in search of Adelie penguins. Adelie penguins are one of two species of penguins (along with the Emperor Penguin) that are only found on the Antarctica peninsula. The first Adelies were collected by crew members of French explorer Jules Dumont d’Urville during his expeditions in the late 1830s and early 1840s. The Adelies were named after his wife, Adele, and are the only species of penguins named after a woman. Fabrice Genevois, a member of our Expedition Team, is a French ornithologist who specializes in polar birds and is also an author of several books, one of which I had him sign!! He pronounces “Adelie” in a beautiful French accent but don’t ask me how to say it.

We also saw more Gentoos and soaked in their cuteness.

One of the highlights was paddling through this enchanting ice garden.

We didn’t realize until Woody told us later that we were being stalked by a Leopard Seal. I’m not sure if the guy below is the one, but….ummmm. Leopard Seals are the second largest species of seal in the Antarctic, growing up to 12 feet in length and they are not shy. They don’t necessarily hunt humans but are curious around kayaks and have been known to attack humans if they are in the wrong place at the wrong time. I’m glad the ice garden wasn’t the wrong place at the wrong time.

And apologies if you are tired of ice pictures and whale pictures but I couldn’t get enough. Absolutely gorgeous in every direction. Plus, a little krill picture to mix it up.

Once we were worn out kayaking, we took a quick trip to step foot on the actual continent of Antarctica! Previously, we were on the surrounding islands but this was the continent!

In the afternoon, we landed at Port Charcot, named after French explorer Jean-Baptiste Charcot. We saw all three types of penguins together! And I was wooed by Fabrice (in his faded red expedition coat) as he waxed poetically about all things penguins.

Day 7 – Portal Point & Graham Passage (1/2/24)

We woke up to the best day yet! The sun was shining, conditions were perfect for some paddling and I experienced the most magical moment of the whole trip.

As we were taking in the magnificence of this part of our Earth, we saw 3 humpback whales not too far away. They were coming straight toward us! There were 2 adults and one baby. I took my sunglasses off my eyes as they surfaced 10 yards-ish from us and swam directly under our kayaks. They trumpeted as they came up behind us. Chills!!! Kara and I looked at each other with tears in our eyes, shaking from the excitement.

The video below was the experience of one of the zodiak groups but I am including it because it is similar to our experience and you can hear the trumpeting!!

I’m not sure how anything could top that experience but we continued to enjoy the sunshine, high from adrenaline, and landed at Portal Point. Some trips go to Antarctica and never get to step foot on the actual continent because of weather conditions but we were fortunate enough to do it twice!!

20-ish Weddell Seals taking naps on the ice below.

And just like that, the weather turned from sunny and gorgeous to snowy and magical. It is hard to tell from the pictures below, but a snowstorm rolled in and we paddled through the snowflakes. There aren’t words that adequately describe this…

Day 8 – At Sea (1/3/24)

Exhilarated from the past few days, our newly formed group of friends celebrated with Shackleton whiskey in honor of Ernest Shackleton, the Irish explorer who led three expeditions to Antarctica in the early 1900s and is one of the principal figures of the Heroic Age of Antarctic Expedition. Slainte Ernie!

Day 9 – At Sea (1/4/24)

Our final day at sea and the last time we will eat together at table 50 in the dining hall.

Day 10 – Journey Home (1/5/24)

And that’s a wrap! We hugged and said goodbye to our new Instagram friends. I look forward to following everyone’s adventures as we each continue on our quests to explore new places and meet new people. I am so very thankful that I crossed paths with these magnificent people and I hope to see them again on another adventure!